Please read this.
for Irvin work (and to a lesser extent that on other vintage flying
kit) are a guide. These garments are getting on for 80 odd years old
in some cases and working on them can be a minefield. When you send
an Irvin jacket (or any other vintage flying kit) to us, PLEASE don't
cram it in a bag. Place it in a box, as flat and unfolded as possible
-they really can be that delicate. On receipt we will go over it and
send you an ESTIMATE detailing the work we consider necessary. Sometimes
you may be able to "cherry pick" from this but sadly for some
jackets, when we say "necessary" we mean it.
We would rather not alter wartime jackets. We will (and can) however alter modern reproductions within reason. As always it is easier to make them a little smaller rather than a little larger. Although we CAN make them a bit larger, matching the hide for inserts is not always possible. We can't alter them blind however and a visit will almost certainly be necessary. A good opportunity to visit the IWM at Duxford.
The price guide is not exhaustive, it just covers the more common repairs on the more usual garments.
|Mould treatment||£11.70||Replace straps||£11.30||Each.|
|With Byson puller||£34.70||Cuffs||fit pr||£30.00|
|DOT arm zip||£74.90||Cuffs||Supply||£25.70|
|Riri zip||short||£14.00||Cuff & waistband set||Supply||£51.40|
|With Byson puller||£20.90||Cuff & waistband set||Fit||£60.00|
|New banding||per inch||£2.30||Waistband||fit||£30.00|
|Seams under banding||"||£3.50||Clean & condition||light||£34.70|
|"Fluff transplant"||for hole||from||£8.20||Clean & condition||heavy||£57.70|
|Shorten cuffs with zips||<2"||£56.20||Fit zips||£51.90|
|Shorten cuffs with zips||>2"||£101.20||Talon M39 (triple marked)||£103.80|
|Re-make collar||£56.20||Talon zip M-42||£64.60|
|Wartime Lightning zip (front)||£103.70||Conmar M-41||£57.70|
|Wartime DOT zip dt||£128.40||Collar||fit||£23.20|
|Wartime DOT zip st||£112.40||Hook & eye||£5.80|
|Neck strap||£11.70||Re-line in cotton||£161.30|
|D rings & strap||£14.00||Re-line with customer provided fabric||£134.90|
|Area of stitching||£5.80||min||Repair patch pocket||£23.20|
|Mend & Patch||£11.70||min|
|Repair half belt||£11.70||(each side)||G-1|
|Make half belt||£57.70||Complete - buckle||Fit zips||£51.80|
|Belt loop (make & fit)||£14.00||Cuffs||supply||£25.70|
|Zip puller (make & fit)||£8.20||Cuffs||fit||£23.10|
|Anti-fungal treatment||£34.70||Waistband double||fit||£34.60|
|Clean & condition||light||£46.20||Waistband single||fit||£43.90|
|Clean & condition||heavy from||£57.70||Collar||supply||£11.30|
|Clean to work||£11.70||Collar||fit||£46.10|
|Condition only||£17.40||Conmar zip, Aluminium||£73.80|
|Extend sleeve where cut down||£34.70||(each side)||Conmar zip, brass, "safety pin" puller||£73.80|
|Restore cuffs (ea)||£23.20|
|Shorten sleeves without moving zip||£56.20||G3|
|Shorten sleeves moving zip||£101.20||Make side strap||per half||£11.30|
|Restore waist (per foot)||£23.20||Buckle||£11.30|
Single layer waistband knits in US jackets are MUCH harder (and therefore more expensive) to fit than single layer ones. Hence the price differential.
Original zips can be HORRIBLY expensive. A nice, working DOT zip can go for well over £100 on a well-known Internet Auction site - the DOT zips tend to be much more fragile than the stronger Lightning type. The zips we quote above for US jackets are new old stock. They are getting harder to find & are going up in price. And we can't get them in the UK so prices are subject to the vagaries of the exchange rate and HMRC. We can however source reasonable reproduction zips.
The RiRi zips we use as replacements are made to our order and are a good match in colour and size for the originals, but we order relatively short runs so even they are expensive. They are however of very high quality and if I were going to actually WEAR a wartime Irvin fitted with DOT suspect I would take the DOT zips out & replace them with the RiRis. Then keep the DOTs in a safe & mothproof place. And on the subject of WEARING wartime Irvin or similar jackets, many of them, unless very well stored, will NEVER be good for every day wear - They are getting just too fragile. We can stabilize them to a certain extent but if they are worn they should be worn rarely and with GREAT care and very much at your own risk. Having said which we occasionally see specimens that look and feel as if they were just issued so it IS possible to find a wearer out there, but don't expect it to be cheap.
Byson Leather 2008 - 2018
Copyright Byson Leather 2008 - 2018