BYSON LEATHER

 

 

Please read this.

Prices for Irvin work (and to a lesser extent that on other vintage flying kit) are a guide. These garments are getting on for 80 odd years old in some cases and working on them can be a minefield. When you send an Irvin jacket (or any other vintage flying kit) to us, PLEASE don't cram it in a bag. Place it in a box, as flat and unfolded as possible -they really can be that delicate. On receipt we will go over it and send you an ESTIMATE detailing the work we consider necessary. Sometimes you may be able to "cherry pick" from this but sadly for some jackets, when we say "necessary" we mean it.
We have tried to provide this estimate service at no charge but for Irvins and some others we have to charge for time. A recent jacket took us well over an hour and a half to go over.

We would rather not alter wartime jackets. We will (and can) however alter modern reproductions within reason. As always it is easier to make them a little smaller rather than a little larger. Although we CAN make them a bit larger, matching the hide for inserts is not always possible. We can't alter them blind however and a visit will almost certainly be necessary. A good opportunity to visit the IWM at Duxford.

The price guide is not exhaustive, it just covers the more common repairs on the more usual garments.

 

IRVIN           B3        
Mould treatment     11.70     Replace straps     11.30 Each.
Front zip fit   51.90              
Sleeve zip fit   51.90     A2        
Riri zip long   27.80              
With Byson puller     34.70     Cuffs fit pr   30.00  
DOT arm zip     74.90     Cuffs Supply   25.70  
Riri zip short   14.00     Cuff & waistband set Supply   51.40  
With Byson puller     20.90     Cuff & waistband set Fit   60.00  
YKK zip     14.00     Waistband Supply   25.70  
New banding per inch   2.30     Waistband fit   30.00  
Seams under banding "   3.50     Clean & condition light   34.70  
"Fluff transplant" for hole from 8.20     Clean & condition heavy   57.70  
Shorten cuffs with zips <2"   56.20     Fit zips     51.90  
Shorten cuffs with zips >2"   101.20     Talon M39 (triple marked)     103.80  
Re-make collar     56.20     Talon zip M-42     64.60  
Wartime Lightning zip (front)     103.70     Conmar M-41     57.70  
Wartime DOT zip dt     128.40     Collar fit   23.20  
Wartime DOT zip st     112.40     Hook & eye     5.80  
Neck strap     11.70     Re-line in cotton     161.30  
D rings & strap     14.00     Re-line with customer provided fabric     134.90  
Area of stitching     5.80 min   Repair patch pocket     23.20  
Mend & Patch     11.70 min            
Repair half belt     11.70 (each side)   G-1        
Make half belt     57.70 Complete - buckle   Fit zips     51.80  
Belt loop (make & fit)     14.00     Cuffs supply   25.70  
Zip puller (make & fit)     8.20     Cuffs fit   23.10  
Hanging loop     9.40     Waistband supply   25.70  
Anti-fungal treatment     34.70     Waistband double fit   34.60  
Clean & condition light   46.20     Waistband single fit   43.90  
Clean & condition heavy from   57.70     Collar supply   11.30  
Clean to work     11.70     Collar fit   46.10  
Condition only     17.40     Conmar zip, Aluminium     73.80  
Extend sleeve where cut down     34.70 (each side)   Conmar zip, brass, "safety pin" puller     73.80  
Restore cuffs (ea)     23.20              
Shorten sleeves without moving zip     56.20     G3        
Shorten sleeves moving zip     101.20     Make side strap per half   11.30  
Restore waist (per foot)     23.20     Buckle     11.30  
Rivets     5.80              
            D1        
            Make collar     45.00  
                     
            M422a        
            Waistband fit   50.70  
                     
            MA1        
03/01/2018           Knit collar     poa  

And this...

Single layer waistband knits in US jackets are MUCH harder (and therefore more expensive) to fit than single layer ones. Hence the price differential.

Original zips can be HORRIBLY expensive. A nice, working DOT zip can go for well over £100 on a well-known Internet Auction site - the DOT zips tend to be much more fragile than the stronger Lightning type. The zips we quote above for US jackets are new old stock. They are getting harder to find & are going up in price. And we can't get them in the UK so prices are subject to the vagaries of the exchange rate and HMRC. We can however source reasonable reproduction zips.

The RiRi zips we use as replacements are made to our order and are a good match in colour and size for the originals, but we order relatively short runs so even they are expensive. They are however of very high quality and if I were going to actually WEAR a wartime Irvin fitted with DOT suspect I would take the DOT zips out & replace them with the RiRis. Then keep the DOTs in a safe & mothproof place. And on the subject of WEARING wartime Irvin or similar jackets, many of them, unless very well stored, will NEVER be good for every day wear - They are getting just too fragile. We can stabilize them to a certain extent but if they are worn they should be worn rarely and with GREAT care and very much at your own risk. Having said which we occasionally see specimens that look and feel as if they were just issued so it IS possible to find a wearer out there, but don't expect it to be cheap.

 
   

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