In the words of Frank Zappa, "Lets talk about leather"..
Leather for motorcycle clothing. - Stitching and construction -Kangaroo Leather- Body armor - Should I buy second hand? - Gloves - Boots - Waterproof leather? - Wet leather - Textile suits - Zips - Badges - Leather for fashion garments -I have an RAF flying jacket... - Leather care - What is nappa leather ? - Glue and temporary repairs - Buying vintage jackets
Everyone who works in a particular field has opinions on their work and the materials they use. This page comprises OUR opinions. They derive from years of wearing, using and working with leather and bike clothes generally. They are not gospel and if you disagree you are welcome to let us know. You can never tell, if we think you have a valid point we may well change the page.
We may even give you credit : -)
Leather is one of the oldest raw materials known to man. The world as we know is built on a foundation of wood and leather. You want a sustainable material? There is no need for dinosaur juice in leather manufacture.
Leather is defined as the tanned skins or hides of animals. Almost any kind of skin can be used as leather, from cattle, through birds (ostrich for example) to fish. Some of these have very specialized uses, many now obsolete (shagreen, a tanned shark skin, was used for sword hilts due to it's high grip whilst traditionally carriage driving gloves were made from dog skin, though deer skin is used now). For the most part our interest is in cattle leather for use in clothing.
You are buying protective clothing so don't sacrifice safety and function to form and fashion. It could be a blood sacrifice.
Leather is used for motorcycle clothing because of it's abrasion resistance,
comfort and appearance. "Moto" grade leather for bike use wants to be
at least 1.5 - 2mm thick to give a reasonable degree of protection.
Thinner than this and it will not protect your valuable hide if you
slide down the road (the exception here is kangaroo hide which because
of its structure can provide equivalent levels of protection at 1½ mm
thickness). Leather up to 3mm thick is flexible enough to use for leathers
but over and about this thickness you start noticing the sheer weight
of the stuff. A compromise is often used where especially vulnerable
areas - hips, arse, shoulders elbows and knees - are "double leathered"
to provide extra protection without incurring the weight penalty of
a thicker suit / jacket. Additional protection in these areas is also
provided by body armor and Kevlar backing. Thinned down leather is
also used for lettering and artwork but this is not thick enough to
provide significant protection. Full grain leather is the best quality,
but is not colour fast and is expensive. The best "moto" grade
leather is "top grain" and "corrected grain" which
are refinished leathers. These are lower quality than full grain leather
but more practical.
Is it worth using Kangaroo leather ?
A good question. Kangaroo is an interesting material. It will stretch
in both directions (and cow leather only stretches in one) and is reckoned
to be twice as strong as cow, thickness for thickness. But this comes
at a cost.
So it is very much your call. The resulting kit is VERY much lighter
and nicer to walk about in in summer. But pretty expensive. There is
no problem altering or repairing kangaroo kit but it is hard to match
most colour other than black so patches or inserts may have to be black
We believe that leathers should be at least double stitched before
top stitching. If a seam is simply top stitched it will fail long before
the leather is compromised and you will make personal and painful contact
with the tarmac. It is often quite hard (OK, impossible) to tell if
the seam is made in this way from the outside (just because you can
see two rows of stitching down the outside of a seam does not PROVE
that the seam is in fact double stitched) so access to the inside of
the suit is important. Whilst we are checking things, we would also
recommend that you check that double leathering really IS double, and
that the leather of the suit has not been cut away under the overlays.
Honest, we have seen it done.
Many race suits use fabric inserts to save weight and bulk. Inside arms, elbows and especially behind the knees are often made in this way. Top class suits will use an aramid textile for this purpose such as Keprotec It is low bulk, elastic and stops the loss of blood flow to the feet that can occur with very high foot pegs and a bulky material behind the knees. Look carefully at the kind of material used on a suit that you are thinking of buying. In this application ordinary stretch materials are neither a right nor a privilege but a potential liability.
Whatever the stitching, repairs should if possible use the existing
stitch holes to avoid weakening the leather. We, and other reputable
outfits, do this as a matter of course. On the evidence of our own eyes
this practice is not, however, universal.
As mentioned above, body armor is commonly used to increase protection.
It comes in two basic flavours, hard and soft. Which you choose is entirely
up to you. We hold a stock of CE marked soft armor which we personally
like, but it is heavy and quite expensive, however it can be trimmed
to fit armor pockets without compromising its integrity. Soft armor
made from polynorborane (Norsorex and Noene) both absorbs energy under
impact & probably more significantly, spreads the energy transfer
over time, whereas hard armor tends to spread the force over a larger
area. There is a lot of research out there and this is probably not
the place for a technical thesis. Hard armor usually fits into made
to measure pockets and has to be replaced like-for like and would require
holding a large stock.
Some suits are fitted with sewn or bonded in armor. Bear in mind that this can make repair or alteration very expensive or in some cases effectively impossible. Again, your call.
Hint. If you do a lot of track days and your friends call you,
for instance, "Flymo", "Thud", "Crasher" or "Kamikaze" think hard before
buying anything that is going to be hard or plain expensive to repair
WELL, as Byson will sell you a used suit it would be hypocritical to say no. But take care of the things mentioned above - there are some really good deals to be had but bear in mind that getting the suit up to scratch may cost a little if it is not perfect. If you buy second hand, it is cheaper and easier to make a large suit smaller to fit than to make a small suit bigger, so err on the side of generosity. Having said that, don't go for a suit or jacket that you could get two of you in because BIG alterations start to look like re-manufacture from a price point of view. If you buy second hand from a reputable source there should be NO visible faults in the garment because it will have been checked over very thoroughly. Altering a second hand jacket, jeans or suit to fit can be quite expensive, but the result, to all intents and purposes, should be pretty much a made to measure bit of kit for a very reasonable price. Especially if we have done the work. :-)
When buying second hand, always check that existing repairs (replacement zips especially) have been done to a high standard. Check that re-stitching has used the existing stitch holes (see above under Stitching and Construction) and that the zip does not "ripple". Check the condition of the zips closely.
Also, take the time to find a really good make. As above, go for something
just a bit on the big side. You could, with a bit of luck and patience
(and with the help of, for instance, E-Bay plus ourselves, or someone
like us), find yourself the owner of what is in effect a tailored Hideout
or Crowtree garment.
The skin on your hands is very thin and very sensitive and the human
hand is a complicated bit of kit. For this reason your hands deserve
the best protection you can afford. Leather will give you protection
from abrasion and hard armor can help protect joints.
Like hands, feet are mechanically complex and also like arms are prone
to flailing about on the end of limbs during a crash. Boots should fit
well and protect the ankle which is a very vulnerable area. Comfort
is essential in a boot, so if you are buying footwear to both ride and
walk in, make absolutely certain you will be able to do both. It is
no good riding comfortably through France and then finding you can't
walk round Mont Saint-Michel. That kind of thing can ruin your day.
Sorry. There really is no such animal. Leather is a breathable material
and will tend to let in the rain. Even well treated leather will only
be shower proof and even then the seams will leak.
If you get really wet, be careful how you dry your leathers. Take
out the lining (You DID buy a suit with a take-out lining, didn't you
?), take out the body armor and hang your kit up on hangers (not on
a hook using the hanging loop) and put somewhere cool, dry and well
ventilated to dry. Ah. You got THAT wet. Well, put an old newspaper
under it to catch the drips. Meanwhile you can put the lining in a net
bag and put it in the washing machine.
We (I) like textile over suits. Textile kit is fine and it is usually
waterproof. Until it gets damaged. Textile kit is not as easy to repair
as leather and it is hard (by which I mean it is going to cost a bit
more) to repair and keep waterproof. We can and do repair and alter
textile clothing but getting an exact or even a good colour match is
difficult with some colours. We have no personal experience of body
surfing tarmac in textile kit so we can't offer any advice as to it's
suitability for this activity. Some of our mates swear by it.
Nylon helical. No ifs & buts, go for nylon helical. For a fashion jacket
or if you are into the retro look (or for a classic jacket like a flying
jacket, but genuine - original manufacturer and model - zips are rather
expensive and hard to find) then by all means go for a metal zip, but
for bike gear the helical is stronger, tolerates curves and bends better
and won't give track day scrutineers a headache. Any of the big fastener
manufacturers is fine, we have our preferences, but we wouldn't NOT
buy a jacket just because we don't like the zip manufacturer. As a rule,
bigger is better. Zips are sized by the span across the teeth when done
up. We tend to use 8 and 10 mm on bike clothing, finer (3mm) on zip-in
Full length round the body
Obviously nylon helical zips are not ideal for all uses. Vintage clothing requires vintage zips. We can source zips for some US flight jackets back to the late 30's. Irvin (RAF) jackets however are very hard to re-zip as original. The Lightning & DOT zippers used in these are like hen's teeth and when they come up on e-bay they are expensive. If you can find one we will fit it for you but if we devoted the time & effort needed to track them down for you the zip would cost it's weight in gold. This doesn't mean we don't try to pick them up when we can and you MAY be lucky, but it's not a good bet. German kit is in the same situation here. Hardware is not easy to come by. We CAN (and do) find modern sliders to fit vintage zips in some cases. And we have managed to refit vintage pullers on modern sliders. If you wear the jacket this could be a possible solution for you if you still have the puller on a broken slider.
And we can in the final analysis fit a modern zip. Ironically we would use the same manufacturer at the Luftwaffe used. Simply because they are very well made, are a reasonable colour match for the tape and a good size match. And not because they are cheap. Sadly :-)
Waterproof zips are sometimes requested. There are two ways of waterproofing
a zip. The first is to put polymer "flaps" over a more or
less conventional zip. This tends to wear after a while, and the engineering
compromises needed to use a conventional zip in this way tend to make
these zips prone to failure in time.
Obviously we can do any colour the manufacturer's will make but there will be a price impact with the above mentioned minimum order problem.
If you are buying, especially second hand, or having club or other
badges sewn on to your leathers, PLEASE don't have them sewn on through
the lining. It makes any subsequent repair or other work much more expensive.
Just about anything that can be called leather can and has been used
for fashion garments. In this field the look is all important, and if
it floats your boat, go for it. One thing to bear in mind here is that
for some garments the leather will be thinned down lots to get the look
the designer wants, and this will leave the leather VERY weak. The leather
finish is usually "printed" on to the surface and the polymer material
used is not designed for strength. As the leather is thinned you end
up with a material more like the finish than like leather and it will
tear and mark VERY easily. The garments will also stretch and distort
easily so CAVEAT EMPTOR.
Lucky you. They are great garments. I would not recommend them for bike use but on a really cold day they are toasty warm. An original (wartime) Irvin in nice wearable condition will set you back in excess of £500 and a good repro possibly more. They do get damaged and if and when yours needs attention, get it looked at sooner rather than later, as the damage won't get better and can get worse quite fast. We have three (or two) ways of doing this. We can apply a leather patch and overband it. This looks pretty good, is a good strong repair and is not too expensive. My father's jacket had an original field repair done this way.
Alternatively we can replace either the whole panel or part of it. We can do this with new sheepskin, but getting a colour match will be pretty hard. If you have an original Irvin jacket, we can repair it with wartime hide. This is the expensive option, but on an original jacket it is probably the best. We almost certainly can't match the colour of your jacket exactly, but the finish and general patina will be a better match than using modern hides with modern finishes. Whatever we do, a 70 year old jacket is probably going to be more fragile than a repro. We can stabilize the garment but we can't perform miracles.
We can also re-zip and repair other vintage military garments - American A and B jackets for instance. At the time of writing this, we had a B3, 2 A2s (one by Spiewak & Sons,1942 -1945, one Cooper Sportswear that looks just post war), and a 1940 dated Luftwaffe flying jacket made by Loutre AG. The problem with all these is hardware. Some of it is virtually unobtainable (Rapid zips for instance). Original zips for Irvin jackets come up now and then (but front zips rather rarely. Arm zips come, I suspect, from broken-up trousers). And when they do they are expensive. There is still some new old stock hardware for American jackets even as far back as the late 1930s, but again it is expensive (£40 -£60 for a zip). We can get some of this stuff for you but we can't spend the time needed to source most of it. That would push the price up out of all reason. So if you need hardware be prepared to look out for it and send it with the jacket or whatever. It is always worth asking if we have some particular item. Also be aware that we are repairers. We specialize in putting garments back into use. We are NOT professional, specialist restorers. We think we do a very good job, but if you need a museum quality restoration job done, I would start asking at Duxford. If you have any hardware in the attic, we would probably be willing to buy it from you for a reasonable sum. We are not made of money and neither are our customers.
That customer COULD BE YOU.
Hanging these jackets is a minefield. An original Irvin is quite
a heavy garment and by now the sheepskin is probably getting a little
fragile. A lot of the damage we see is round the shoulder area and we
suspect that this is caused by hangers. The jackets came fitted with
hanging chains. Don't use these either. They will pull out and taker
the collar seam with them. Again, the jacket will be too heavy and the
skin and stitching too fragile by this time. I would recommend storing
them in moth proof bags, stored flat. Cedar balls in the bag will help
deter moth too.
Can garments like flying jackets be cleaned? Well yes. But with a GREAT deal of care. An Irvin jacket issued in 1940 will have a 70 year accumulation of grime, oil, dead wildlife and assorted leather dressings on it. Some of which may be holding it together. It will obviously benefit from having some of this removed, but it should not come up looking like new. If it looks over-restored then some damage may well have been done in the process. Don't even think about dry cleaning. To clean and re-dress an Irvin jacket is a good way of loosing a couple of days, so I would suggest that our price of about 40 - 50 of your Earth pounds is a pretty good deal. Because we know how to clean them, what to clean them with and what to re-dress with. Which is not the same compound that we use for routine dressing of vintage leather.
IF you are thinking about sending or bringing us an Irvin jacket (and actually this applies to all vintage clothing, but to Irvins especially), once we start working on these it can open up something of a "can of worms". For example, shoulder seam banding may appear to be coming away due to the stitching rotting. But when we lift the banding the seam under it has long vanished. We CAN'T just do the banding, the seam has to be exposed to determine the extent of the damage, then repaired before the banding is re-stitched. Often on these garments we end up asking ourselves where to stop. Just bear in mind that repairing vintage clothing can get a bit more expensive than you thought - it is the nature of the beast. We do our best to keep the costs down whilst doing a good job. Pretty much all our other work is done on a time-to-do basis. Irvins (and similar garments where the "repair" is closer to "restoration") are an exception here because frankly they take too long & the true cost of repair to a really badly damaged jacket would (probably) be unaffordable. So we quote on a "per item" basis and we fit the tasks in around our mainstream work. It means the project can take quite a long time, so this is another factor to consider before you sent this kind of work to us.
An example of the problems with these jackets is shown here:
This pile was extracted from ONE Irvin Coastal Command jacket. There is probably still this much stuff in there again but one has to be careful with these garments. Quite a lot of this clag ends up in our machines which then have to be stripped and cleaned. Cleaning these garments is not just a case of sprucing up the outside.
OK, so we have gone over your Irvin jacket and it has come back to you all patched up and brown. (You did know it was originally brown, didn't you )? And we hear you ask, "Is that the cleanest it will come ?"
Well, no. We could probably get it cleaner. But it is as clean as we feel we can go without damaging the jacket. You will still be able to see deep oil satins and the like - but I don't think you want to remove them anyway. They are a part of the jacket's story. And the jacket is also as clean as you probably want to afford. If we charged a sensible labour rate on this job you would wonder if owning an old Irvin jacket was such a good idea after all. Its a bit of a labour of love :-)
The pictures above show a half-cleaned Irvin jacket - there are still deep oil stains on the sleeve, but trying to remove them would also remove the surface of the hide. It is still slightly damp. The trousers at right have NOT been cleaned. Simply gone over with a soft brush and a vacuum cleaner & then half re-dressed.
This kind of garment can be brought privately, or on the Internet from a well-known auction site, or from a specialist dealer. One such that we have some personal experience of is oldnautibits.com, an aviation and naval collectibles specialist north west of Yeovil. There is something to be said for buying from a specialist (and an enthusiast).
We have recently done some work on a 1942 pattern USAAF B3 jacket and pictures are on this page.
Should you send (or bring) such a jacket to us (Irvin, USAAF B3 etc) we will raise an estimate (for which we have to charge - it can take a very long time to do properly) and once you have signified your approval, commence work. I think it a good idea to insert a brief word explaining to some extent how we arrive at our prices - some customers have been surprised at their estimates and it is handy to know in advance very roughly what to expect - although there are always surprises.
Irvin flying jackets – Why is my estimate larger than the national debt of Togo ?
This article is information concerning our work on Irvin and Irvin – style flight jackets but applies broadly to US forces shearling jackets and similar garments. We felt it necessary to write this to inform customers (and potential customers) how we arrive at the prices charged for sheerling work, and to expand a little more on our thoughts about carried out on these garments.
Alterations on WARTIME jackets are not done here for four very good reasons. The first is that as the fabric of the garment has conformed to the human shape over the years, what were originally flat panels of sheepskin are now quite complex three dimensional shapes which are impossible to match and any alteration will be unsatisfactory as the shape will not be right. Secondly it is almost impossible to obtain big enough pieces of the correct wartime hide to work with. The piece needs to be big enough, of the correct colour inside and out and have the nap running in the right direction. This is such a tall order as to be almost impossible. Thirdly, there would be so much work involved that the jacket would be severely compromised. The stitching on these jackets is already weakened by age and the hide likewise due to age and wear. We run the risk of having to re-build the whole jacket at crippling cost. Lastly - it would be just plain wrong. We are looking at an historic garment here and altering it would be intrinsically wrong in our opinion so we just won’t unless there are REALLY exceptional circumstances.
Repairs to wartime jackets can be a minefield. Trying to give you a ballpark figure is pure guesswork as each one is an individual with it’s own history and problems. Repairs have to be carried out under some of the constraints mentioned above. It has been suggested to us in the past that a jacket could be brought back to life by replacing an entire panel. This is pretty much impossible due to the shape factor discussed in the first instance above, and down to the material factor mentioned at point two. Bear in mind that a piece of shearling intended as a replacement has to be considerably larger than the existing panel to allow for distortion and for the depth of the seams. Our estimates are just that. With wartime jackets we simply do not know what is in there until we start – the stitching under the banding may have failed, or previous repair work may have been done at a poor standard and need rectifying
Cost: In both cases the work will require a lot of hand stitching, especially on good quality garments . This is expensive by it’s very nature – someone able to work at this standard at a reasonable speed is NOT going to be on minimum wage. You can probably save yourself a nasty shock by measuring the likely length of seam we will have to disrupt. Sewing the seam between panels is charged at £3.00 per inch, then the over-banding has to be sewn back (two sides) at £0.50 per inch (this can be machined so is less expensive BUT the banding on wartime jackets has to be hand sewn @£2/inch as it is not safe to turn the sleeves through – the risk of the stitching failing catastrophically is just too high, and we have to sew through the same holes as were used originally).
Let us look at an example: A (very large) modern reproduction Irvin needs taking in substantially due to the owner having lost weight. Quite a lot of weight, and from waist to shoulders. It has sentimental value so they do not want to chop it in on a well-known auction site & look for something smaller, or it is simply a nice jacket that was made to an individual specification. The side seams are on average about 15 inches long each side. That is 30 inches at £3 per inch, plus sewing the banding back on, which is 60 inches at £0.50 (£30). This will almost certainly entail moving the half belts on an Irvin and re-sewing the waist trim (£20) so we are already looking at £140 for a very simple alteration. Anything other than simply taking in the waist will involve taking the sleeves out and removing and replacing the under-arm pieces (and incidentally removing and replacing the ventilation grommets). Have a good look at the structure there. It is really complicated and it can’t be compromised or the jacket will be unwearable. There are about 32 inches of seam EACH SIDE in that structure at £3.00 per inch, plus stitching and refurbishing the underarm triangles (£28.00), so we are now looking at an additional £220.00 before we re-sew the over banding (remember that ?) which is 128 inches at £0.50 or £64.00. Now, if Mr Tate managed to beat enough arithmetic in to me in the third form, that all comes to a rather alarming £424.00. Now, that is a “Worst Case” example, but it should serve to give some idea of the sheer amount of work required to achieve a good outcome – it does NOT include the cost of any materials – JUST the sewing, but it DOES include the time taken to dis-assemble the jacket and to do the cutting. The same costing applies to repairs of course, but as we endeavour to minimise the work done to avoid compromising the structure of the garment there is rather less of it involved.
Is it worth it ? We think so, but then, we would, wouldn’t we ? But our customers would agree with us. We are providing an almost unique service and doing it to a very high standard, whilst trying, as best we can, to keep the cost to our customers (many of whom come to us more than once) to a reasonable level whilst keeping the wolf from the Byson door. These are expensive and sometimes very valuable garments, both sentimentally, historically and financially, and work on them can’t be done “on the cheap” with any real hope of a decent outcome.
Dos and don’ts. There are a few things to think on. If you see a jacket needing some work that has been previously repaired using glue, it is going to cost more to put right. Avoid it if you can. Doing any kind of prep work yourself will almost certainly NOT save us time. Knowing how LITTLE to do is one of the things you are paying us for. If you have brought, found or been given an Irvin or similar jacket and it is very dry don’t condition it before sending it to us. It makes life harder as we may well have to clean it off to run under our machines and we would rather have the chance to assess it “as is” so that we can see exactly what we have got. What you can do, if you suspect that a jacket may harbour wildlife, is to bag it and put it in a domestic freezer for a week before sending it. That will eradicate the inhabitants without the use of insecticides and save us the trouble & cost. When packing a wartime jacket to send to us, try to use a box big enough to fit it in with the absolute minimum of folding. A tight fold can put a lot of strain on the stitching and we don’t want to have to fix damage that has occurred in transit. It is rare, but it has happened. This actually applies to any garment but it is especially important with wartime Irvins.
On completion you will receive an invoice with payment details, and then we will return your jacket (or you can collect it) it in due course. With the jacket you SHOULD receive a little note. If you don't (or haven't) it reads something like this:
Wartime sheering jackets;
Many thanks for entrusting your jacket to us. We have done our best to return it to you in the best condition that we can but we feel it is important that you understand (if by some chance we have not mentioned it at least twice since yo first contacted us) that your jacket is an 80 year old survivor of a type of garment that was designed for function rather than long life at a critical time in our history. Even the best of them are not really suitable for everyday wear with some rather rare exceptions. The cotton thread used to stitch them is often nearing the end of it’s life aggravated by some poor choices of dressing and the skins themselves are often very weak, and many have had a hard life postwar with heavy and often dirty use and poor storage. These jackets should be handled and used with considerable care. They should ideally be stored flat and in a mothproof bag in a cool, dry place. The weight of them is such that it alone will drag a hanger through the sheepskin on the shoulders over time and the hanging loop or chain should be regarded as a quaint decorative embellishment and NEVER used in anger.
Nevertheless they are wonderful jackets and with care and attention should last another 80 years, which is more than I can say for myself. The men who wore them were tough but like them, the jackets are sadly no longer as robust as they were.
BYSON repairs & alterations
Keep it clean. Mud and the odd dead fly can be sponged off with a little
warm water. If your kit is dirtier than that, a proprietary leather
cleaner used according to the instructions will remove light surface
dirt. Try to get one of the foaming type, do small areas at a time and
leave to dry in a cool well ventilated spot overnight.
A special word about neat's foot oil. Be ever so careful with this
stuff. If you are using it, do so VERY sparingly. Use a cloth applicator
of some kind and be careful not to saturate the applicator, let alone
the leather. If the finish looks uneven or blotchy, don't lather more
on, just leave it overnight. The finish will almost certainly even up
with time. It is so easy to saturate leather with oil, which will migrate
through to the lining of a garment, or the contents of a case. If you
are going to use neat's foot, try to get pure neat's foot as it is generally
more stable & predictable. On light leathers or nappa, I would avoid
it like liver.(1)
Saddle soap. People keep asking us about saddle soap. Honest, we are just standing at the bar with a pint and a Merlot minding our own bizz and people ask about saddle soap. Well. Not quite, but you know what we mean. Many people think it is the bee's knees for cleaning leather. They have not tried it, but they think that anyway. It's called SADDLE soap. It IS OK for cleaning saddles and tack, but the "soap" constituents are mainly in there to emulsify the conditioning ingredients and not for cleaning. Additionally it was developed in an era when people either had, or were, grooms, so saddle soap is really a professional product and as such we would advise caution. To the point of abstinence.
Cleaning and conditioning fashion leathers is very much as the above but with added emphasis on the "use water / cleaner / conditioner VERY sparingly". Grubby fashion leathers are also a candidate for professional dry cleaning, but try to find a leather specialist cleaner rather than a general dry cleaner.
(1) About the only thing the author won't eat.
I am trying to avoid getting technical in here, but most fashion garments (until you start getting to the VERY expensive or heavy items) are made from nappa leather which is a finished sheep hide. It is soft and comfortable. But like other soft and comfortable products it is not as strong as cow leather. There is a lot of information on the Internet about leather and leather processing if you are interested. Our favourite site appears to have gone pear-shaped at the moment. I will include links when I find a site or sites as good.
No. Please don't. If you can possibly avoid it. Whatever the lady on The Shopping Channel said, it is NOT a good idea. It is quite possible to glue leather and make a good job but the chances of your having the right adhesive in the kitchen cupboard are vanishingly small. Torn fashion garments need attention as soon as possible to avoid distorting or stretching the leather any more than has occurred at the time of damage. The more the leather is distorted the less likely we are to be able to effect a low-visibility (invisible is very hard ) repair. DO NOT put super glue anywhere near leather garments. I've probably said this before somewhere on this web site but I will say it again. It is the work of Stan. It is very hard, if not impossible to remove and breaks machine needles. We end up having to cut the contaminated leather away and this makes for more expensive repairs.
Racers & track day folks often carry out "temporary repairs" with gaffa or carpet tape. If you have done this, get it off as soon as you can & have a permanent repair made. There is something in the adhesive of some tapes that has a catastrophic effect on some types of leather. Don't risk having this combination. I'd love to be more specific but knowing exactly what tape has done the damage is pretty hard especially after it has been on there for 12 months. I suspect it is a type of carpet tape but won't swear to it..
You are on your own here as any such purchase is very much an individual thing. I can however give a few tips on buying when you can only see pictures based on the experience (sometimes bitter) of some of our customers. And the first and most important is if it looks too good to be true then 85% of the time it probably isn't true. Look very carefully at any pictures on on-line web auction sites. There are several ways we have seen used to make jackets look "at their best" and these include over-application of leather dressing, the application of hair lacquer, the use of automotive colour restorative polish, boot polish and plain old poor (or rather selective) photography. Or a combination of more than one of the above. So take care out there and if it all goes slightly pear shaped we may well be able to help, either by repairing, cleaning or restoring the garment or by giving an expert opinion.
Last revised April 2017
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